ТК-2409

Straight-cut shirt, 'dodilkova.' The body is sewn from three panels ('desyatka'). The sleeve is one-piece, with a gusset, gathered at the bottom and finished with a narrow cuff with stitched buttonholes along the edge. The body and upper sleeve edge are gathered near the neckline into fine folds using the 'sewing to the collar' technique. The neckline is round with a 32 cm slit in the center front, finished with a hem with buttonhole loops at the edges, tied with a green ribbon. The shirt is decorated with stylized plant and geometric patterns, embroidered in 'white on white' (shoulder area, sleeve, cuff, hem) and dark blue geometric patterns (connecting seams of the body at the hem). On the shoulder area, a wavy branch is embroidered, with half-flowers and leaves rhythmically attached. The entire composition is framed above and below with horizontal strips of triangles and double leaves. Above the composition — five branches with ornamental motifs of the shoulder area embroidery, below it — a scattering of branches with leaves and two stylized lilies ('lyshtva straight,' 'grain stitch'). The sleeve cuff is decorated with a zigzag line with small diamonds in the recesses ('nabiruvannya,' 'lyshtva straight'). The hem is sewn with a 'single rod' and decorated with a strip of embroidery composed of diamonds and triangles connected at their vertices, framed above and below with lines of triangles and small diamonds ('lyshtva straight'). The connecting seams of the body at the hem are decorated with a zigzag line embroidered with blue threads (hemstitching 'cherv'yachok'). Legend: The shirt belonged to Paraskoviya Mykolayivna Pyvovarova, who lived in a peasant family of average means. Acquired during an ethnographic expedition to the villages of Chuhuiv District, Kharkiv Region, together with employees of the Institute of Ethnography of the USSR Academy of Sciences. Author — Paraskoviya Mykolayivna Pyvovarova (she wove the canvas, embroidered, sewed, and wore the shirt).