ТК-1947

Woman shirt

Exhibit ТК-1947, Woman shirt
ТК-1947

Century
19
Size
58x72x60 cm (sleeve from neckline)
Material
Fabric, homemade fabric, bleached hemp canvas, decorative and weaving material, thread, white thread, zappolotch
Technique
Hand weaving, hand sewing, hand embroidery, surface embroidery, counted surface embroidery, 'lyshtva' ('satin stitch') straight, 'nabiruvannya' ('surface stitch'), 'zatyahanka,' 'stebnivka' ('running stitch'), transparent embroidery, 'cutting,' hemstitching, 'cherv'yachok,' 'half-cross'
Place of creation
Ukraine, Sloboda Ukraine, Kharkiv Governorate, Velykyi Burluk (?).

Description

Straight-cut shirt, 'stanok.' The body of the shirt is sewn from three panels. The sleeve is one-piece with a gusset, finished at the bottom with a hem secured with coarse fasteners. The body and upper sleeve are gathered near the neckline into dense pleats using the 'sewing to the collar' technique. The neckline is round with a 30 cm slit in the center front, fixed at the bottom with a fastener. The neckline edge is finished with a narrow hem with two buttonhole loops at the edges for a cord. The shirt is decorated with stylized geometric patterns, embroidered in 'white on white' (shoulder area) and black and red zappolotch (neckline, connecting seams of the sleeve, gusset, and body). The shoulder area is decorated with a horizontal strip of ornament featuring diamond and triangle motifs, enclosed above and below with straight strips with attached 'spiders' and 'kupky' ('lyshtva straight,' 'cutting,' 'half-cross'). The neckline is decorated around its circumference with a strip of red ornament, bordered by black lines. The ornament consists of so-called 'keys' — S-shaped signs arranged horizontally, and triangles connected at their vertices ('nabiruvannya, zatyahanka'). The sleeve, gusset, and body on the back side are joined with a zigzag hemstitch seam, embroidered alternately with black and red threads ('cherv'yachok'). Legend: Belonged to Nataliya Vasylivna Kashcheyeva, a resident of Velykyi Burluk, Kharkiv Region, who made the shirt for her dowry.

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