ТК-1877

Woman shirt

Exhibit ТК-1877, Woman shirt
ТК-1877

Century
19
Size
129x74x70 cm (sleeve from neckline)
Material
Fabric, homemade fabric, bleached hemp canvas, decorative and weaving material, thread, white thread
Technique
Hand weaving, hand sewing, hand embroidery, surface embroidery, counted surface embroidery, 'lyshtva' ('satin stitch') straight, 'retyaz,' 'stebnivka' ('running stitch')
Place of creation
Ukraine, Sloboda Ukraine, Kharkiv Governorate, Krasnokutsky (?) District, village of Kolontaiv.

Description

Women's straight-cut shirt, 'dodilkova.' The body of the shirt is sewn from three panels. The sleeve is straight with a gusset and an inset, sewn along the weft, gathered at the bottom into fine folds and finished with a narrow binding. The body and insets are gathered near the neckline into fine pleats using the 'sewing to the collar' technique. The neckline is 'square' with a 27 cm slit in the center front, finished with a narrow hem with two buttonhole loops at the edges. The shirt is decorated with stylized plant-geometric patterns, embroidered in 'white on white' (inset, sleeve, hem). The lower edge of the inset is decorated with a horizontal strip of ornament featuring a diamond motif with an inscribed flower, enclosed above and below with toothed lines. Parallel to the ornament, near its upper part, five stylized bouquets in a vase are placed ('lyshtva straight'). A horizontal broken line with sprouts in the recesses, framed above and below with narrow strips of 'kupky' spaced at intervals, is laid along the upper sleeve edge. Below, the sleeve is decorated with eleven 'sunflowers' (diamond with a dot in the center framed with leaves), arranged in two rows in a checkerboard pattern ('lyshtva straight'). The neckline slit and the connecting seams of the panels at the hem are finished with a 'retyaz' ('retyaz'). Two similar retyaz are laid along the hem edge, with 'spiders' embroidered between them ('lyshtva'). At a distance of 2.5 cm from the hem edge, a stylized depiction of 'berehynia' (two diamonds with four sprouts) is embroidered around the hem. Legend: Belonged to Iryna Fedorivna Neshcheretna. Acquired by the expedition of the Kharkiv Historical Museum.

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