ТК-237
Woman shirt
- Century
- 19
- Size
- 139x77x70 cm (sleeve from neckline)
- Material
- Fabric, homemade fabric, bleached hemp canvas, decorative and weaving material, thread, white thread
- Technique
- Hand weaving, hand sewing, hand embroidery, surface embroidery, counted surface embroidery, 'kuryachyi brid,' diagonal 'lyshtva' ('smooth'), diagonal 'cross-stitch,' 'stebnivka' ('vystih'), openwork stitch, openwork embroidery, 'cutting,' decorative auxiliary seams, 'zubtsiuvannia,' 'pukhlyky'
- Place of creation
- Ukraine, Sloboda Ukraine, Kharkiv Governorate
Description
Straight-cut 'do pidtochky' shirt. The body is sewn from six panels. Straight sleeve with a gusset and insert sewn along the warp, decorated at the bottom with a row of 'pukhlyky' and finished with a narrow hem; decorated at the top with three rows of 'pukhlyky' (10 cm long). The body and insert are gathered near the neckline into fine pleats using the 'sewing to the collar' technique. The neckline is round with a central front slit (24 cm long), finished with a narrow hem with two slit buttonholes at the edges. The shirt is decorated with stylized floral-geometric patterns, embroidered in 'white on white' (insert, sleeve, hem). The insert is embroidered with a horizontal pattern stripe, with elements of a broken line with half-diamonds in the recesses and stripes of triangles and double leaves framing the central pattern above and below ('lyshtva'). The upper sleeve edge, to the right and left of the 'pukhlyky,' is decorated with a row of half-diamonds and half-flowers with five petals ('lyshtva'). The sleeve surface is covered with a vertical 'broken branch' motif composition – six zigzag lines with half-flowers at the corners, separated by dense stripes embroidered 'in a lock' ('lyshtva,' 'kuryachyi brid'). The hem is decorated with large teeth ('zubtsiuvannia') and hemmed with a 'single prutyk.' Parallel to the hem’s edge is a composition of a broken line ('cross-stitch') and transparent half-diamonds in the recesses ('cutting'), framed above and below by narrow openwork stitches with stars and triple columns ('openwork with laid thread'). Near the hem on the right is a stylized four-petal flower with a transparent center.
Legend: According to the inventory book TK-1, the shirt belonged to the Museum of Sloboda Ukraine named after H.S. Skovoroda.