ТК-198

Woman shirt

Exhibit ТК-198, Woman shirt
ТК-198

Century
19
Size
73x75x68 cm (sleeve from neckline)
Material
Fabric, homemade fabric, bleached hemp canvas, decorative and weaving material, thread, white thread, woolen thread
Technique
Hand weaving, hand sewing, hand embroidery, surface embroidery, counted surface embroidery, 'kuryachyi brid,' straight 'lyshtva' ('smooth'), diagonal 'cross-stitch,' 'stebnivka' ('vystih'), decorative auxiliary seams, 'obmetytsia' ('plakhtove zakinchennya'), openwork stitching, 'cherv’yachok,' openwork stitch
Place of creation
Ukraine, Sloboda Ukraine, Kharkiv Governorate

Description

Straight-cut 'stanok' shirt. The body is sewn from three panels. The sleeve is one-piece with a gusset, gathered at the bottom into fine pleats, and finished with a narrow hem. The body and upper sleeve edge near the neckline are densely gathered using the 'sewing to the collar' technique. The neckline is round with a central front slit (27 cm long), finished with a narrow hem with two slit buttonholes at the edges. The neckline slit is hemmed with a 'single prutyk.' The shirt is decorated with stylized floral-geometric (sleeve) and geometric (shoulder, sleeve and gusset seams) patterns, embroidered with white, blue, and red woolen threads. The neckline and sleeve hems are decorated with blue and red threads ('obmetytsia'). The sleeve, gusset, and body on the back side are joined with a zigzag seam ('cherv’yachok'), framed on both sides by similar lines ('cross-stitch'). The sleeve at the shoulder is decorated with a wide horizontal stripe of diamond-shaped patterns with inscribed 'crosses' and 'half-crosses' ('lyshtva,' 'cross-stitch,' 'kuryachyi brid'), underlined above and below by narrow openwork stitches ('openwork with laid thread'). Almost the entire sleeve surface is covered with dense embroidery of a 'branch' motif with double leaves and stylized diamond-shaped flowers ('lyshtva,' 'cross-stitch,' 'half-cross,' 'kuryachyi brid'). Along this composition, the sleeve on the front side is decorated with a vertical stripe of eight single geometric flowers ('cross-stitch').

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